Tbilisi does not try hard to impress you, and that is exactly why it works. Within an hour of arriving you might be on a crooked balcony street smelling fresh bread, then riding a cable car over red rooftops to a thousand-year-old fortress. The Georgian capital is walkable, a little chaotic, and still cheap by European standards. Most visitors give it two days and wish they had booked four. Here is what to see, what to eat, and what it costs in lari (GEL).
First Impressions of the Old Town
Start in the Old Town, the tangle of lanes climbing up from the Mtkvari River. Houses lean at cheerful angles, their wooden balconies painted mint, mustard and faded rose, no two carved alike. Many look one strong wind away from collapse, laundry strung overhead.
There is no real itinerary to follow. Wander up Betlemi Street, pass the tiny synagogue and the Armenian church a few doors apart, then drift toward the river. Sioni Cathedral and the Anchiskhati Basilica, the city’s oldest church, appear by accident. Give the Old Town a full morning with no plan beyond coffee.
Narikala Fortress and the Cable Car
From Rike Park, the cable car lifts you over the river straight to Narikala Fortress in about two minutes, for a couple of lari on your transport card. Go up in the late afternoon. The walls are mostly ruined, but the view is the point: the Old Town below, the gold dome of Sameba Cathedral across the river, and Kartlis Deda, the Mother of Georgia, holding wine for friends and a sword for enemies.
Walk back down rather than riding. The path drops past the city’s old mosque and lands you right in the bathhouse district.
The Sulfur Baths of Abanotubani
Abanotubani is easy to spot: brick domes at ground level, steam curling off the hot springs that gave Tbilisi its name, since “tbili” means warm. Public baths cost around 15-30 GEL, but most visitors book a private room for an hour, roughly 70-150 GEL. The Royal Bath and the blue-tiled Orbeliani Bathhouse are popular choices.
Add the traditional scrub, the kisi, for about 20-30 GEL. An attendant scours you with a rough mitt, then douses you in warm water. The water smells faintly of eggs, and your skin carries it for a day. Accept this. Everyone does.
Mtatsminda and the Dry Bridge Market
For a slower afternoon, ride the funicular up Mtatsminda. At the top: a small amusement park and wide views over the whole bowl of the city. It is a local family spot more than a tourist one.
The Dry Bridge flea market is Tbilisi’s attic sale: Soviet medals, oil paintings, old cameras, china and second-hand books on blankets and trestle tables. Prices are negotiable. It runs daily; weekends are busiest, roughly 10am to 5pm.
What to Eat and Drink
Georgian food alone justifies the trip, and portions are built for sharing.
Khinkali and khachapuri
Khinkali are big pleated dumplings filled with spiced minced meat. Eat them upside down, holding the tough dough knot, and drink the broth first so it does not end up on your shirt. Nobody eats the knot. One costs around 1.5-2.5 GEL, and five or six make a meal.
Khachapuri comes in regional styles. The famous one is adjaruli, a boat of bread filled with molten cheese, butter and an egg yolk you stir in at the table. Imeruli, with cheese sealed inside, is easier on the move. Expect 12-20 GEL in a sit-down restaurant.
Wine the Georgian way
Georgia has made wine in clay qvevri vessels buried underground for some 8,000 years. Amber wines, from white grapes fermented on their skins, taste nutty and dry. Wine bars in the Old Town and Sololaki pour local bottles by the glass for 10-18 GEL, and staff genuinely enjoy explaining what is in front of you.
Day Trips from Tbilisi
Mtskheta, the old capital
Only 25 minutes away by marshrutka minibus from Didube station, about 2-3 GEL, Mtskheta is the easy half-day trip. Jvari Monastery sits on a hill where two rivers meet, and Svetitskhoveli Cathedral below is one of Georgia’s most important churches. Go early, be back for lunch.
Kazbegi and Stepantsminda
The Georgian Military Highway north to Stepantsminda is one of the great road journeys of the Caucasus. The three-hour drive passes the turquoise Jinvali reservoir, Ananuri fortress and the Friendship Monument above ski town Gudauri. In Stepantsminda, Gergeti Trinity Church stands at 2,170 metres under Mount Kazbek. Shared tours run around 80-120 GEL per person. It is a long day, so an overnight stay is the relaxed option.
Getting Around Tbilisi
The centre is best on foot, though the hills test your calves. The metro has two lines, costs 1 GEL per ride, and covers most of what you need; pay with the same card used on buses and the cable car. Bolt taxis are cheap and reliable, most cross-town rides costing 5 to 12 GEL.
What Things Cost
Tbilisi remains good value. A mid-range central hotel runs about 120-250 GEL a night; guesthouses and apartments start near 60 GEL. Dinner for two with wine is typically 60-100 GEL. Museum entry is usually 10-20 GEL; churches, markets and viewpoints are free. Budget roughly 150-250 GEL per person daily, excluding accommodation.
Practical Tips for Your Trip
- Late spring (May to early June) and early autumn (September to October) bring warm days without summer heat or winter chill.
- Carry some cash. Cards work widely, but small bakeries, markets and marshrutka drivers prefer lari in hand.
- Learn two words: gamarjoba (hello) and madloba (thank you). They open doors everywhere.
- Dress modestly for churches. Women usually need a headscarf, often provided at the door.
- Tap water is safe to drink, so bring a bottle and refill it.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many days do I need in Tbilisi?
Three days covers the city comfortably: one for the Old Town and baths, one for a day trip or the markets, and one with no plan at all. Add a fourth for Kazbegi.
Is Tbilisi expensive?
No. Compared with most European capitals it is noticeably cheap, especially food, taxis and wine. Your biggest costs will be a private bathhouse room and mountain tours.
When is the best time to visit?
Late spring and early autumn are the sweet spots. July and August get hot and busy, while winter is cold but atmospheric, with skiing at Gudauri within easy reach.